If you were to put a marble in the middle of Oberlin’s campus, it probably wouldn’t go anywhere. This part of Ohio is as flat as a map on the wall. Curiously enough, there are a number of Obies who are dedicated rock climbers. After hearing what they have to say, you’ll be surprised how many ways there actually are to (vertically) broaden your horizons.
The Oberlin College Rock Wall is tucked in an unassuming corner of Philips Gymnasium’s central atrium. It has a four-sided column for top-roping and a small bouldering cave (with a newly fitted crash pad!). Climbers check in for free via a QR code and have open access to the closet of miscellaneous gear. Those who frequent the OC Rock Wall describe it as a great place to meet other Oberlin climbers and learn about off-campus climbing opportunities.
“It’s the most judgement-free climbing environment I’ve ever been in,” College second-year and OC Rock Wall staff member Flora Max said. “People come in and just talk to other people, and I do think that the vibe that’s facilitated is awesome. … In terms of broadening people’s experience of climbing, I think, right now, on staff, we’re in a good position because a few of us have good outdoor experience and enthusiasm to climb outdoors.”
For those looking to tackle more adventurous climbs, there are a number of off-campus locations of which students like College third-year Zara Craig take advantage.
“I feel like indoor climbing is almost just training for outdoor climbing,” they said. “Outdoor climbing is definitely more dangerous [but it’s also] more freeing because it’s just you in nature. … You can go climb something that’s like a hundred feet tall and you just get a beautiful view on the way. … It’s a very surreal experience.”
The Outings Club recently partnered with OC Rock Wall to organize a free trip to Kentucky’s Red River Gorge. The group, mainly composed of beginners looking for their first taste of real rock, departed this past week and will return Sunday, Oct. 5. A 5.5-hour drive away, the Gorge offers more climbs than a single person might be able to do in a lifetime — over 4,000 routes. The cliffs are made of sandstone, which means the holds are just textured enough that they’re easy to grip (Well, easy is debatable. Some routes are an easy 5.6 scramble while others require you to seriously defy gravity in order to top a 5.14).
For those short on time, there are a couple of other climbing options closer to campus.
“About two and a half hours away is a place called the Mad River Gorge in Springfield,” Craig shared. “The Mad is a super secluded — basically below a cliff line. So even though it’s in the city, you would not be able to tell; you can’t hear any of the road noise or anything. So it’s a super serene place just off the side of the road.”
The OC Rock Wall also usually hosts a trip to Marne Road once a semester. While this crag can be noisy because of its close proximity to a busy highway, it is convenient and offers a fair variety of climbs — maxing out at 65 feet tall. There are lead routes that make use of the pockets in the sandstone, overhanging boulder routes, and slabby top ropes.
For those looking to climb outdoors more frequently who don’t have their own gear, OC Rock Wall has a solution.
“If you want, you can borrow gear [for free],” College second-year and OC Rock Wall staff member Elijah Boulware said. “So people take shoes, crash pads, or harnesses, or whatever for a few days so that if they want to go to On the Rocks or outside, they have the ability to do that.”
On the Rocks is the commercial climbing gym, which is only a 10-minute drive north of campus. Each month, there’s an On the Rocks Night, where students sign up to carpool and receive discounted climbing passes and free pizza. Craig started out climbing at these events, and, once they got their own car, they started going three times a week.
“I decided I needed a little more real estate,” Craig said, referring to how much bigger On the Rocks is than the OC Rock Wall. “At On the Rocks, they have lead and top rope, and they also have a bunch of auto belays. I personally do a lot of endurance work, so it’s nice to climb on the auto so you don’t have to have your belay buddy with you for 20 minutes.”
When people think about prime rock climbing locations, Ohio is likely not the first thing that comes to mind. Still, the Oberlin climbing community is going strong. They’ve found many ways to sharpen their skills, whether that be on indoor walls or outdoor rocks. In the future, OC Rock Wall hopes to increase access to transportation and secure funding so they can facilitate more off-campus climbing trips. Maybe one day, the pillar at OC Rock Wall will even be renovated and become the tallest point on campus, rivaling Mount Oberlin.
